Father & Son Build - Torsions, Rotors, 930 Flanges

In this video Sam and Nate work on getting the new thicker 28mm torsion bars installed to handle the increased leverage the 3x3 trailing arms provide. After that battle of getting both sides to match, and Sam's forehead was bandaged up new 930 drive flange stub axles, bearings, spacers, seals, snap rings, and bearing caps were installed along with new disc brake rotors. Sam clears out the old front to rear brake lines, installs some stainless steel brake hoses, and then finishes up by installing 930 drive flanges on the 002 Bus transmission.

Video Transcript

Hi guys, I'm Sam, and I'm Nate, and we're back to work.

We've got these arms mocked up. We've got the torsion housing trimmed down. We're only cycling about seven inches of travel right now. We're not going off-roading. Ideally, we're going to come back later and trim these spring plates down so that they don't contact the top of the torsion housing, but it is what it is. For now we're going to put our torsion bars in and get them bolted in for the last time, hopefully, and get this thing one step closer to being back on its own wheels. Although, we don't even have wheels yet. At this point, I think we're just going to pull off these 19s again, 19s, 15s. I should have grabbed the proper tool for that, but I didn't. Yeah, those are tight. Let's get those off, get these torsion bars in, and get that stuff set up.

We grabbed a 19 mm big dog and a 19 mm wrench. I'll get this torsion cover off. Found your custom tool? Good, because I'm going to need it. Yeah, we'll let Nathan work on that. I will get to work on the pivot bolt. We don't need that here. We will need that when we set up our angles on our torsion bars. Oh, it went down. Yeah, it's no longer held over there. Here we go. Alright, perfecto. We can pull our spring plate off. I mean, we didn't technically need to take that out, did we? Yes, because the arm has to drop down far enough. Let's get this guy pulled apart as well. Alright, our torsion bars and a little bit of grease. Well, let's see if they are actually marked. I've got a right turn here, so this is the right side. So that's perfect.

Left, are you kidding? Is that what L means? I don't think that there is a skinny side on this one. Not that you can see, but there is. It's 40 teeth on one side and 44 on the other. Yeah, so how do you tell? I can see that that side is larger than this side. If you look at them closely, you may not have developed the calibrations in your eyes like I have. So what side is the marked side, the outside one or the inside? The marked side is the outside. Yeah, hold on, I need. And this is the smaller side, so it's going to go in. Wipe my hand off and maybe be able to actually get it in. I think that's it. Alright, it might be. I just couldn't grab it firmly because I had grease all over my hand. I mean, it won't twist.

First things first, we're just going to try to make certain that we get both of these guys on at the same angle. And that's the same angle as stock right there. And about one degree less than stock. Actually, how can you see one degree? Didn't change much. There's inside teeth and there's outside teeth. That's why.

It's not quite, but it's pretty close. And nope, that's up and too high. There. If not quite, but it's pretty close. And nope, that's up and too high. There. If. Makes not line on. Cho, and that's too high. What? This looks like it has stripes of some sort. Yeah. Yeah, I’m gonna go 180° opposite. We're just going straight upside down.

That's actually pretty darn close. But let's see. I mean, stock also probably sat way off compared to brand new zero. Yeah, 19° at current. Is that normal or? There's no normal, buddy. This is not stock. Just what we got right now. The important part is that we get the other side meshed up. Can you grab me the 15? Also, there's a bolt like this. Nathan, there's a shinier bolt like this over on the counter. It's about twice as long. Okay, so you can grab that for me.

Whenever installing spring plate caps with new bushings, I find it's easy to have a longer bolt. That way, you can use this to pull it in to the point where you can go so you can just tighten down all the other ones. Yeah, I mean, we're not going to tighten this side all the way down simply because we still need to get this jacked up in place. But of course, this arm's in our way.

Take that one to the other side. Oh, where'd it go? Alright, put our bolts in. Let's get the jack. Jack this thing up. We're actually going to put this thing under a load. Put jacked it up right there. Alright, and now we're up over the top of the torsion. Grab this and tighten that bolt. And that bolt right there. Jack it up higher. I want to see how much. That's pretty stiff. Alright, drop her down. Alright, let's go do the other side. That was a bit fast. This one. Alright, 19° on the other side. Where's my thingy thingy? Anglometer. We're going to need the jack over there. Hammer. All this out the way.

21. 21? Mm-hmm. We need 2° out of that. Alright, this is going to be a fun one. We just keep on coming up to 21°. I need to. There's actually an online calculator that will be able to let you know how to clock in degrees based on any given turn. But ain't nobody got time for that right now. I know. Huh. I mean, maybe we should have time for that.

Look at that. Where are you going? Shannon. Grandpa. What? Oh, what? Need. Couple. What happened? He cut his head on that damn fender. I hate you. I need that on my TV. Yeah, come on, let's get going. Where are the big bandaids?

Are you okay? Not if you. Um, are you filming right now? Yep. Okay, can you take a break? So if I get the stuff, can I sanitize, cut, and put another bandage? You get the stuff. Okay.

Alright, we got that side done. Let's see if I can get this stupid bolt over here. Still recording? Yeah. Uh, can I go riding with Mikey? Well, Nathan, whatever. I thought you wanted to get this car ready for the show. But go play. Okay, thanks. Still gotta be a kid. Later, dude. Did you go to the garage yet? I am.

That means this side is set and that side is set. Next thing, stub axles. I really need to put some sort of trim on those guys because it's going to be so. I need to clean those housings. Broke the tip off. Oh well. Put a piece of paper towel over the top of it. There we go. And that's why we cleaned them out. So I've got a conglomeration of parts here. Inner bearing, snap ring, outer bearing, inner bearing, bearing cap, axle bearing seal kit, axle spacers, inner wheel seal. Need to pack these outer bearings, inner bearings, seals, bearing spacers will go onto our axles. And it's pretty apparent this one's got a concave, so that one slides over there. This one's got a space. This one, this one's actually going to sit out here for outer seal. And these big guys go in between the bearings.

Fresh paper towels, fresh grease, inner bearing into the grease we go. Also, just grab the outer bearing and do it at the same time. The spacer with the concave goes there. Now we know we're all the way in. We can see our groove right there. We'll grab our bearing clip, snap him in place. That gives us this lip right here for our inner wheel seal. Perfecto. Now our axle's in. Our inner spacer, a little grease in with our outer bearing.

Now I can hear it's bottomed out. Another spacer, and that, that, and that are all we need out of this kit. And o-ring. These bearing caps are meant to have a backing plate or a bracket behind them. However, with our 3x3 arms, we can't run it. So for now, I'm just putting the bearing cap on with no spacer. What I'm going to do when we actually do a final assembly on this car or a more proper assembly, I'm going to take a brake bracket, and I'm going to cut it down so that it fits and acts as our spacer. This side's done, ready for a brake. And then I'm going to work on our output shaft cups, at which point I can work on our CVs. I can blow out our brake lines. I could probably measure or temporarily tack our brake caliper in place, measure for a steel line. I've got the rubber hoses, but it all starts with getting this rotor on, so let's start there.

Well, that's a bit of a bummer. These Wilwood calipers don't clear these rotors, so we're not going to be running Wilwood calipers. Dang it, I really wanted to run these, so much so that I even ordered speed bleeders for these. Back to the old drawing board on the brakes. Alright, since I can't get into the front because the hood's in place, I'll flush the brakes this way. That should be good. Hopefully, the audio is not too bad. I just had to open the garage up. It's just getting a little bit stinky of brakes in here. These brake line tabs are, sorry, they're teeny tiny.

Before I get too much further ahead, might as well put my studs and nuts on both sides, do some more clean up. Hopefully, there's enough light in here. There we go. A little circlip right down in there. Gotta get that circlip off. That wasn't horrible.

Some new drive flanges, wow, they kind of fit, right? That's weird. Not totally certain what that, well, the first problem I see is these nuts won't allow this flange to go on any further, and it's obviously got to go further back to get over that. Wondering if I've got to pull these studs out and run bolts in. Maybe, about the only thing I can think of. And you guys probably can't see because there's not a whole lot of light down here, which means I got to loosen these guys up and lift the transmission up to be able to get those. My apologies for the lack of light. Hold on, let me see if I can shine a light in this situation. So I pulled off all the nuts, and now I can see the groove, so I am going to have to pull off all these studs. I've got the transmission unbolted from the frame horn so I can jack it up to get the bottom two, and I'm going to have to run bolts in place of all these studs to clear a larger diameter CV. You see, there's like virtually no clearance behind that stud. Hardly see, but we've got some indications that these studs are scraping on this cup. So I'm going to spend a few minutes and get all these studs pulled out and see if I can find some bolts to put in here instead.

Let's see this jack is in the way. Yeah, well, it's also holding the back of itself. Yeah, this is such a pain to butt, huh? Yeah, we should have done this before we put the transmission in. I mean, how hard is it to unbolt the transmission? Well, it's just a matter of jacking it up and everything else. Yeah, it's actually not even hardly bolted in. You want to do that? Yeah.

Nathan had the brilliant idea of just pulling the transmission out. Let's do that.

I thought we were recording that whole time. Unfortunately, we weren't. I got all the studs pulled out, replaced with bolts. We got the new 930 flanges in. It's easy enough, just pop them in, hold the circlip in one side, pop it on with the other, put the dry flange cap in place, good to go there. On that note, we're going to call it a night. After we stick this transmission back in place because this made it working on it a heck of a lot easier. Tomorrow, we'll work on getting the 930 CVs installed. Hopefully, the 20 1/4 axles will work. Otherwise, I'm going to cut an inch off of them or an inch off either side, and then I'll have them cut for new grooves, hopefully, if there's enough spline length. Or in the meantime, I'll just deal with it. We're not going off-roading yet. If I have to buy new axles later, I will. But we're going to wrap it up and call it a night.

I'm Sam. And I'm Nate. And life's full, good people. If you can't find one, be one. Later, guys