Online School With JBugs

Lesson 1: What to Look for When Buying a VW Beetle

In this lesson, we will be discussing how to properly inspect a project car you plan to buy. We will be using a 1969 Beetle as an example, but a lot of the information will apply to other air-cooled VWs. When you go to look at a car, the excitement of a new project can overpower your better judgement. You can prevent yourself from getting in over your head by taking time to do a thorough inspection of the vehicle prior to purchase. We’ve put together a basic list of things to look for before making the deal. Taking the time to follow these five steps could save you from headaches down the line.

1. Check the VINs!
2. Look for rust in the common places
3. Confirm proper fitment of all external body parts (fenders, deck lid, hood, doors, etc.)
4. Inspect the wiring

We recommend checking out our video on YouTube covering the process, so you know what you’re looking for. You can view the video here.

Checking the VINs

There is no easy way of knowing what has happened to the car in the 40+ years since it was built. Because of the minute changes made to the design over the years, it is very common to see parts swapped from different model years, including the entire body. Cars with a matching body and pan (chassis) carry a higher value and are easier to register, so it’s in your best interest to confirm that information before finalizing any deal.

On the VW Beetle, you can find VIN tags in any one of the following places, depending on the year.

1. On the dash behind the windshield and next to the A pillar on the driver’s side
2. The rear portion of the driver’s side door jam below the striker plate
3. On the body badge in the trunk area
4. On the center tunnel of the pan underneath the rear seat. This number will be stamped directly into the steel in front of the shifter access panel. This is the only stamp on the pan.

VIN Location on center tunnel.

Look for Rust and Corrosion

Like all old cars, the Volkswagen Beetle is prone to rust over time if not cared for. There are few places moisture tends to settle based on the design of the vehicle. Always remember to inspect the following areas for rust before moving forward.

Rust is commonly found in the following places:

1. In the front quarter area in the wheel well behind the tire. The wheel well is constantly bombarded with road grit and moisture, so corrosion of this area is very common.
2. The heater channels, both inside and out. The heater channels are constantly taking in moisture that has been sucked through the engines cooling system and they have more than 10 different threaded holes in them for the fenders and pan to body bolts that can allow moisture to penetrate them.
3. The luggage area behind the rear seat. Moisture that leaks through a cracked or damaged rear window seal often accumulates in this area, causing rust.
4. The battery tray. More often than not, this area will be rusted out. It happens for two reasons. First, battery acid is extremely corrosive. Second, the battery tray is one of the lowest points on the pan, so water can pool up there, exacerbating the issue.

It's not uncommon to find rust on 50 year old cars. However the severity determines how much time & effort your restoration will require.

Confirm Proper Fitment of all External Body Parts

Remember to always check the gap between removable body parts and the main body of the car, particularly around the front and rear apron. Examining body part fitment can help give you an indication of whether or not the car has been in an accident without having to chip away at any body filler. Bondo can hide a lot of damage if you don’t know what to look for. Bring a magnet with you if you’re unsure if body filler was used in a given location. If the magnet doesn’t want to stick, there is likely a substantial amount of filler between it and the original body metal. The following places are commonly damaged in accidents, so we recommend looking them over:

1. The gap between the fenders and the body, particularly where they meet the front and rear apron.
2. The fit between the front apron and the hood.
3. Inside the front apron. It is very common for this area to get crushed in during a front end collision. Sometimes the body can be repaired to the point where there is not a noticeable gap between the hood and apron. Looking at it from inside the trunk should show what is not visible from the outside.
4. The fit between the rear apron and the decklid. Adjusting the deck lid gap is a relatively simple process, but can be difficult due to damage to rear apron.
5. The door gap. Open and close the door, checking the door gap on all sides when shut. Front end damage can push the A-pillar back, which can affect the door gap.

Gaps between body panels and hood/decklids can vary. This is either the result of poor installation or the vehicle being in an accident.

Inspect the Wiring Behind the Dash

Air-cooled VWs have remarkably simple wiring compared to other cars, but that means that DIY electrical repairs are the norm. For that reason, most project Beetles will likely come with a rat’s nest of wiring under the hood. We recommend always inspecting the wiring before buying a car, and definitely before firing it up for the first time. There are few things worse on the nose (and your project budget) than an electrical fire. At minimum, verify that there are not any damaged or exposed wires dangling around before moving on.