1600cc Engine Build Series - Part 2 - Top End Assembly:

Video Transcript:

0:00 all right yesterday kicked my 0:08 butt or rather should I say this engine kicked my butt let me just come out and 0:15 say it I am not a professional engine builder by any means I've only Built a couple of short blocks um 0:22 and whether or not my head was just in the wrong space yesterday or otherwise between getting the connecting rods 0:28 flip-flopped around and having a problem with that saddle bearing dropping and then misaligning the dowel pins on the 0:34 main bearings this thing just kicked my butt take that as a lesson to you 0:39 guys make sure you're double-checking and make sure that 0:46 everything is as it should be uh and make sure you've got you know a good head space cuz if once you start getting 0:52 flustered things just kind of go downhill from there um but either way 0:58 it's assembled now we're at top dead center number one everything's spinning properly it's a little hard with all 1:04 this assembly Lube on here but there we go everything's spinning like it 1:12 should timing gears properly installed everything on the short block is ready to go I am going to go through double 1:18 check the deck height we're going to CC the heads just so we can check what the compression will be uh adjust if needed 1:26 and then we can go ahead and get this engine assembled we're going to work on cylinder number three but 1:34 because these engine case Hales have a slightly different step 1:42 here and here I don't know if that's 1:47 just because it's aluminum or there different castings left to right but we've got a 1:54 step here on this side that is not on this side so I am just going 2:01 to mock up two cylinders number one and number 2:07 three uh with the Pistons to check our deck height on these two 2:12 cylinders then we'll CC our heads and we'll get our compression ratio set so 2:18 that point I've got to get some cylinders out so looking at our head studs here 2:25 we've got nine long studs three medium medum length studs and four short studs 2:33 um so we're going to have eight head studs per head four long studs go across 2:40 the bottom on number three because number three is deep studded it's going to get 2:47 another long stud and the opposite side will get a medium stud on numbers one 2:53 and two the outsides will get medium studs and then the inner two uppers are 2:58 all going to be short St studs so that's why there are nine three and four on our 3:05 studs we're going to get those thread it in and get started on 3:17 that all right so this is our one and two so these are going to 3:25 go two short two medium 3:44 and again our long one we'll go right 3:49 here medium short short all right good good good good good 3:58 good good crank shaft at 90° which means one and three are all the way out at top 4:05 dead center even though that's the only one that would be firing technically at this point we are going 4:11 to completely remove our piston and 4:17 cylinder notice our Rings here we've 4:23 got top ring and medium ring top ring has slight 4:30 bevel just that ever so slight bevel M this one is 4:36 square so that's the way we're going to reinstall them but first we're going to take them off oh and the the red and the green butt 4:53 up all right that Arrow tells us that that points to the flywheel not that it matters at this 5:00 point cuz we're just doing this for a mockup right now but when the installation time does come that's where 5:06 it wants to go all 5:21 right all right so that is our top dead 5:28 center 90 5:33 de right there now we need to measure how much Gap we've got right 5:44 here some fuer gauges now ideally you would bolt this 5:49 thing down nice and snug but this isn't a high performance 5:55 build we're not concerned with 6:01 Perfection we just want to give an idea 15 it's like 6:08 60,000 still apparently more than 60 40 50 60 70 6:15 70,000 I just can't add up any more shims so basically 80,000 more or 6:24 less is Our Deck height or negative deck height so we got 80,000 of an inch 6:30 between the top of the cylinder and the top of the cylinder wall I can already 6:37 tell you that as it sits we're not going to run any cylinder shims to increase 6:44 that uh because with this amount of Volume Plus the amount of volume in the 6:49 cylinder head we're not going to be a high compression engine if anything you would actually end up decking these uh 6:57 and lowering it to increase compression question with that being said let's CC 7:03 ahead normally we would want a disc that fits nice and snugly inside of 7:09 there get this guy as flat as possible and then using 7:14 milliliters just fill up this chamber with water until it's basically flat so 7:21 we start with 60 cc's of water that's been 7:27 tinted and we fill up the 7:40 cup 5 6 7 and basically 7:45 eight with that little bit of Remnant here so we'll call that eight from 60 7:51 will give us basically 52 CC combustion chamber so we'll take that 7:57 number so four 855 stroke 69 Ms deck height 8:05 80,000 combustion chamers 52 CC's so our engine compression ratio is 8:11 going to be 7.2 to1 we have four cylinders that's a given and this is our engine displacement 1585 CC's or 97 8:20 cubic in yay Volkswagen lots of horsepower so 8:25 anyway that's how you check your compression ratio because the the way these cases 8:31 are machined down differently on each side I want to make sure we still have about the same otherwise our engine 8:38 would be running weirdly with half of it having more compression than the 8:44 other I also want to get this wrist pin in there 8:50 [Music] 8:57 but just one of those things things we got to deal with with new 9:05 engines there we go a little a little 9:11 lubricant just because it's tight doesn't mean it's not going to 9:21 go got to say that's the first there we 9:26 go top dead center on 9:35 inches and just a little bit less deck height that's just the minute 9:42 differences in this surface right here that's such a minimal difference 9:47 and this engine's low compression already and it's not like we're going to be turbocharging this thing and running it to 7,000 9:54 RPM so it's not a big deal but that just shows that because of that difference in 10:00 the surface right here versus the other side that you can come up with two different deck height measurements uh if 10:06 you're only checking one cylinder always check number three because number three is going to run the hottest because of the way that the oil cooler sits and the 10:14 way that the engine is designed always check your compression ratio on number three set number three at whatever you 10:20 want the engine to be and everything else should be pretty close but with that being said if we 10:28 look at the we can see a whole bunch of metal shavings on here so we're going to take these and rinse them and wash them 10:36 and then we will start by assembling these putting the piston rings in and 10:42 whatnot and so forth even our piston you 10:49 [Music] seeing all those nice little oil rings coming out of there or 10:58 those 11:08 and 11:14 immediately a good bath WD40 because you can see those things 11:20 are starting to rust already start by reinstalling our piston 11:28 rings onto the the one piston that we disassembled to check our deck height our Oil ring we definitely don't want 11:35 our Oil ring down in the oil flywheel that way that side 11:41 up going set our oil rings one goes 11:47 below come on there we go I'm going to set 11:52 one horizontal on our wrist pin here the other one's going to be 180° out over 11:58 here says top and 12:04 remember the square one was our middle ring and just like before we're going to 12:11 go 180° 12:19 opposite there we go that's that side and now that guy's ready to go back 12:29 all these guys obviously were already because we never took them [Music] 12:35 out install that 12:41 [Music] there pop that in 12:47 there and then there we go just like to make sure 12:54 that it's nice and happy I like to 12:59 use Aviation sewant across the bottom edge 13:11 [Music] 13:17 here there we go here we 13:23 go beautiful now we'll put that top dead center 13:29 and do it all again just the way they're sit on the wrist pin there we 13:35 go now we going to do our push rod tubes and we can set our cylinder head on just 13:41 cuz you never know what kind of factory these things were [Music] 13:51 in one 2 3 13:57 4 more of my favorite 14:08 juice I'll grab that one 14:20 later there we go and make certain that all of our seams are sitting up we twisty 14:30 twisty until they're all good to 14:35 go especially the ones in the 14:43 head all right just give them a little drop this will just 14:50 help our nuts slide down on top of 14:56 them when they're getting tightened down and I guess from here on out wouldn't be 15:02 a bad idea to tape up all of our holes Etc so we don't get anything into 15:08 our 15:15 engine all right now we're going to go through and torque torque torque torque torque toror T torque get my Tor go 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 at 15:27 7 foot- lbs 15:33 [Music] 15:38 check che che check 15:44 check check check 15:50 check check all right now we're going to bump it up to 18t lbs now we're going to 15:57 go one two 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 so x and x 16:05 [Music] 16:10 basically with that this side is ready to button up for safety's sake these are 16:17 very clean no gaskets but we are going to lock it 16:26 up there we go that side's button up ready to go go do the other 16:32 side all right this side is just a uh duplicate of the other side so I'm 16:38 going to do this while uh the regular cameraman's out having 16:47 lunch rookie mistake on my part I forgot to put in the flect 16:54 plate those supposed to go in before these guys go in in and I forgot them this isn't my uh my 17:03 best engine build ever but again this shows you guys what 17:09 not to do so now that I spent some time and went through and put our deflect tin 17:15 in make sure you put that in before you put your push rods in like I said my mind's not been in the 17:22 game on this engine apparently but either way learn from my mistakes 17:29 put your deflect tin in first I've never put one of these things together but just because I have like on 17:37 this engine doesn't mean I'm actually going to do it right like I haven't done on this engine so far so let's uh cut these guys open and see 17:45 what's going on let's give it a wh lots of rocker 17:53 arms hey more rocker stand shims I don't believe those are are supposed to be 18:01 bent one two 18:09 three no I'm not I'm not going to I have enough it's easier said than 18:15 done I say and along those lines I might as 18:20 well put in some rocker studs anti- 18:26 caeses steel to aluminum antise a please drop us some motor 18:44 [Music] oils those guys seem really tight here and here so guess what we're 18:53 going to have to switch out that thin shim with that thick shim and that thin shim with that thick shim Actually I 19:00 don't even know if that's going to 19:08 work hey by joob I think we've got it let's just way too much side 19:18 play and everything actually seems fairly well lined up on their valve 19:25 stems so to get this guy moved over I'm going to put a smaller 19:30 shim here hopefully I've got 19:36 some loose shims so we're going to try to move everything that 19:42 way on this assembly here in between and then 19:48 we'll work on the outside 19:57 geometry let's see 20:08 5,000 no I think 4,000 this the smallest shim in my 20:14 set so we've got 4,000 play but not 5,000 apparently now we've 20:22 got 5,000 okay I can force 7,000 in 20:29 and that is as close as we can get those guys to being Square over the top of our valve and I 20:36 can probably demonstrate this a little [Music] 20:43 bit with some screws don't drop those inside the push 20:51 rods that would be very bad so if we look right here we want to have as much 20:57 contact area right here as we 21:03 can this one is closer to the center of the valve than this one is but this is as 21:09 far over as we can get this adjuster so this we'll have to do but at least we're actually getting contact on the 21:17 valve and not the 21:27 side yeah nice good contact 21:35 there and 21:41 5000 7,000 Max that feels really good very little side play so this 21:48 side's good now we can work on this [Music] 21:57 side 22:08 5000 good and snug so we're going to call this side 22:14 good to go this is the point where we' normally put in our push rods and then bolt down our rocker 22:21 assembly on top of that and for sake of this video I will do that however when it comes time to 22:27 first start this car we're going to pull off our rocker assembly so that we don't have our push 22:34 rods pushing down on our lifters pushing down on the cam while we're trying to build oil pressure we're going to relieve the pressure off of the cam 22:41 until we have oil pressure at which point then we'll put our valves or I'm sorry then we'll put our push rods 22:47 in then we'll bolt on The Rocker assemblies and then we will go through and crank the engine over for its first 22:54 time this product has not been cleaned for final usage thorough cleaning of 23:00 machine debris and cutting oil is required before use so we're going to do that 23:05 now and note that these are chromal steel push 23:13 rods so we're going to set our valve lash at zero on these not 23:19 [Music] 6000 you you're in a pinch you can use 23:24 these as a reable straw yeah yeah I wouldn't recommend it but you 23:36 [Music] could and just 23:41 to dissipate all this water inside throw a little 23:48 WD40 a little bit more 23:56 oil and we're at bottom dead center currently 24:02 so as we spin our engine we will probably see these valves 24:09 move a little bit or at least these rockers 24:19 [Music] 24:26 anyway [Music] 24:32 couple of those guys dabs of oil dabs of 24:39 oil oil on [Music] 24:47 there dabs of oil 15 foot- 24:53 lbs here 24:59 that's 15 right [Music] 25:04 there make sure that all of our rods are in 25:18 place all right let's see if I can crank this engine over a little bit see if we can watch our valves 25:26 work might be easy said and done cuz I don't have a grip on this just going to 25:32 install our gland nut intake 25:39 open intake Open Exhaust 25:45 Open Exhaust open 25:55 andt so now should 26:01 be really close to top dead center with our screws all the way 26:09 out more or 26:14 less yeah we're all the way out and those guys should both be 26:21 loose since we don't have any adjustment we'll put some stand shims 26:28 underneath that will lift our rocker assembly further away so that these will 26:34 actually be able to be adjusted and we can set our 26:44 valves rocker stand 26:56 shims [Music] 27:09 all 27:17 right all right so we're going to watch this 27:24 guy intake come on 27:33 all right so bottom dead center is right 27:40 there and we should be able to pull that screw with number 27:47 four at top dead center we've got play 27:53 there number three at top head Center 27:58 we're basically looking for zero lash which means I can turn the push rod 28:05 but I can't move [Music] 28:12 it turn and if I tighten it anymore I can't 28:17 turn it so that is this valve set or valves 28:27 both those valves are set so now with our valves 28:38 set good and snug still spins no 28:45 play ooo that might be a little bit more that might me some thicker shims 28:52 right there you would hear that when the engine's running 28:59 so we're going to take care of that right now and I'm going to move this guy 29:05 that way thicken up some shims 29:10 and we'll call that one 29:25 good all right that valves set ready to Jet and given that this is a brand new 29:31 engine not any part on this thing has ever been run there will be some wearin 29:37 or some Breakin as you call it once everything's run for that first Breakin 29:43 period we're going to go through and change the oil chances are we're going to have to go back and adjust our valves 29:48 cuz there's Coatings all over everything from the Machining process and the hardening process Etc that coating is 29:55 going to wear off on High contact points or high wear contact points like our 30:00 push rods our lifters um so we'll change the oil probably have to go back and set 30:06 the valves all right so this side's 30:12 done we can do all that on the other side 30:17 [Music] 30:26 now [Music] 30:46 [Music] 30:56 the [Music] 31:03 I've been cranking this engine over using this guy but we don't have a flywheel seal in 31:12 yet and I can't put in or rather I can't tighten down the flywheel yet because we 31:20 don't have the flywheel shims fwh is going to need an O-ring just use a 31:25 little V R1 remember we did clean this when we set got our endplay measurement Way Back 31:33 2 days ago so that's clean ready to rock a little bit more oil just because why 31:39 not little bit of oil little bit of gasa hinch around our outside perimeter our 31:46 Delux flywheel seal in Star War tool always makes life 31:56 easy 32:04 you don't want to bottom it out you just want to bring it just to flush slash just past 32:12 flush like that that's ready to go now we can oil that inside 32:21 lip and we can set our flywheel on and we can put our gland nut in place 32:27 with the washer but we can't actually tighten it and set the end play until 32:33 the shims arrive and guess what we're out of stock I'm sorry they're on 32:40 order but they're not here yet so we're just going to set that 32:45 in take a little grease put on our pilot 32:54 bearing and this will hang out 33:01 here while we build the rest of this engine which is going to be fun I don't 33:08 care if a little paper gets burnt up and sent out the tail pipe I do care if metal gets in there though St stud stud 33:16 stud stud stud stud what do we do whenever we're putting steel into aluminum and I 33:22 sees if you please 33:42 now for those of you that like a pretty engine you can take some brake cleaner and go through and spray off all of the 33:50 run-ins on our Aviation 33:55 sealant [Music] 34:01 there we go nice and pretty all right so there we have 34:08 it five boxes of Parts two one assembled long block with a 34:14 couple gaskets bolts and pieces and parts left over and yes with this kit 34:20 there will be Parts left over we have a number of gaskets that we're not going to be using there's a lot of duplicate 34:27 Hardware uh we're going to need some extra parts as well uh like we obviously 34:32 needed some extra shims for our rocker assemblies we're obviously going to need 34:37 some shims for our flywheel but other than that that was 34:43 everything that we needed to build this engine in five boxes not bad did we learn anything 34:51 along the way well I did but again as I've said numerous times throughout this series I'm not a a professional engine 34:58 builder I made a couple mistakes maybe quite a few mistakes flipping the 35:04 connecting rods around twice was pretty stupid on my part well once and then back and then forth but either way that 35:10 was pretty stupid not putting in the cylinder deflect tin rookie mistake but 35:16 when it comes to engines I really am a rookie this is the second engine that I've built by myself as far as a 35:22 complete short block to Long block I've been for many many engine builds I've 35:28 done plenty of top ends or plenty but you know maybe 10 top ends as far as new pistons and cylinders and heads and 35:35 whatnot so I've done that probably 10 plus times so I am by no means an 35:40 expert I know enough to get in trouble obviously but hopefully you guys took my 35:47 experience here building this to give you an idea of what you would need to do 35:52 to build this engine in your garage or your shop 35:58 and hopefully this gives you the confidence to let you know that guess what it can be done even when you make 36:04 mistakes so with that I hope you guys enjoyed I hope you guys have learned 36:09 something and keep watching because couple more videos we're going 36:15 to get this thing fully built into a complete running engine and we're going to run it right here on the stand so 36:21 stay tuned for that and thanks for watching guys