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Any time you are working on a major car project, disconnect the battery to prevent a possible electrical fire.
Make sure the exhaust has cooled off since the last time it was driven! Working on a hot engine is a sure way to get burned.
Block the front wheels and jack up the rear of the car, unless your car is lifted or a baja, or you are really small and can easily fit under the rear of the car to access the exhaust ports.
Use jack stands to support the rear of the car if you are jacking up the car.
Remove the rear engine tin. The fan shroud hoses and heat riser plates will have to be removed if your engine has them.
If you have a single carburetor, you should have heat rise tubes. Unbolt the heat riser tubes from the exhaust.
For cars with working heater boxes, loosen the clamps from the "kidney bellow" to the heater box.
Remove the nuts from the exhaust ports for the header/ muffler.
Loosen the heater box/ j-tube clamps.
Install new exhaust port gaskets.
If you pulled the heater boxes or j-tubes, install them now. The right side j-tube is the longer of the j-tubes. Thread on the exhaust nuts but do not tighten them.
Slide the new exhaust lock rings and sealing rings into place on the heater box or j-tube ends.
Keep in mind that the paint WILL BURN OFF any painted muffler or exhaust (mufflers and headers that are not ceramic coated, chrome or stainless steel). If you want a lasting finish, remove the paint and use a high temp exhaust paint.
Wipe down the muffler/header/j-tubes with cleaner (brake, carb, alcohol wipe, etc) to remove any grease or oils before starting the engine. This is CRITICAL on ceramic coated, chrome or stainless steel systems.
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