Turn Key Assembly - Part 1 - VW Engine Tin Fitment:

Video Transcript:

hi I'm Sam with jbugs.com and we've got all this aftermarket engine tin fit to this aftermarket engine case not an easy job but it can be done stay tuned while I show you how and we are going to get started by turning this unassembled long block into a turnkey engine start this run it break it in because it's a brand new engine we're going to have to run this thing through a cam Breakin but we'll cover those steps when we get there so before I start grinding and cutting things up I'm going to try and seal off some of the holes on this engine starting with the spark plugs probably tape off our intake ports I'll probably put on an oil cooler maybe I'll drop our distributor in just got a couple of these holes better sealed off so that nothing gets into this engine we've got some stock replacement NGK plugs these are br6 hs's uh they come preg gaped typically that's what that cardboard piece is for to keep that tip from getting damaged also important this resistor cap that is going to have to be removed because that won't fit that with that in place so we got to pull that off so the spark plug can go in there and we'll do that before we put the spark plug in the head all right before my spark plugs go in I want to make certain I put some antise because we have steel going into aluminum we want to make certain that they aren't going to get locked in place really easy just to print this off of our website it's got most all of the engine torque specs for everything that we're going to need to go through spark plugs 22 ftlb oil cooler adapter the Hoover bit one two 3 four so we've got two seals that sit in between here but before I do any of that I want to rinse these out with some brake clean real quick set those guys in place [Laughter] there our oil cooler set that in place couple washers couple nuts take our Hoover bit set that in place and that just blocks all that air from escaping out the bottom side and it can only go on that one way oil cooler nut five yeah that one's stripped hm those threads don't look stripped at all yeah those aren't stripped since it is an eyelock oh it stripped the nut I knew I felt something going bad well dagnab it hold please turns out we're on backward on these right now and I don't have another one handy here at work I've got a couple at home it's not going to stop us from doing as much as we can so I'm going to get this bolted on to the engine case uh with our lower bolt in place so that this will at least hold everything for the meantime in between time those guys just sit in right there no sealant and stall our nuts these goes to 14 foot- PBS these bottom studs are always so fun so that seals off that and that and these do come with an O-ring however I prefer original O-rings so we'll pop that off uh distributor clamp we're going to slide him on and then we're going to put our new clamp in specially designed for push rod and flat ta it engines basically it's got lots of zinc doesn't matter if you're using Valvoline or casserole or lucus or AMS oil or TCO or uh pen grade any of those oils it doesn't matter what you use as far as oil just make certain it's got zinc and that's just the advanced in our distributor and a little bit of play in those teeth but that's what we're looking for if it was up just a little bit more you can spin it all the way around that means it's not fully engaged so push it down until it stops and then turn it until you can push it down some more make sure you're locked in place now we know that this is number one top dead center oil pressure switch nothing fancy and these just thread in dry they have a tapered thread that just keeps junk from getting into our engine we're going to get to modifying the case or the tin so that tin goes in hitting here as well as there probably the best thing to do is probably just going to be Notch out our tin a little bit there fit proper then pretty let me go through and start doing some grinding and some cutting let's see how that does hey hey hey I can live with that but that hole I'm going to have to open up just a little bit so let me get a bur bit and do that I should be able to get two sheet metal screws in there no problem in the hole there we go so we'll install pulley that feels pretty [Music] good all right it appears that we're hitting on this back corner right there so I'm going to cut this back lip right there probably need some clearance right across the back of that case right there in this area there so I'm going do a little Notch right there flatten that area out a little bit and knock that edge off as well everything else for the most part looked really good in there is good widthwise is decent widthwise over here is really good but obviously when that's in place that fan trout doesn't go down far enough we've got to fix that so let me do some trimming see how she goes yeah that seemed to have made a big difference that should be good there in the back there I want that to come down a little bit further as well just clean up some of the back edges I think now my cylinder tin is getting in the way of me getting a happy fit over here pretty tight fit there relatively nice fit there and a good fit there I'm going to put together our fan and backing plate get that bolted onto our alternator or get our alternator stand bolted up and then I'll get our alternator set in place bolted to the fan shroud to make certain that this thing's sitting where it should be or before I finalize or call these ready got a fan got an alator backing plate that is just a reinforcing spacer sits like that that hole lines up with the bottom here like so all those we'll put some washers and nuts on those those down to 5 footb with that come in with our fan hub kit and I've said it before I'll say it again I don't know why they come with two spring washers but they do let's get that keyway lined up make sure it's on the right way this is keyed that needs to be facing out yeah 35 mm wide fan for our doghouse fan shroud there we are oh yeah we're going to need some shims I'm going to just do one two three that looks pretty darn close wavy washer spring washer whatever you want to call it that seems really good two UGA ugas very minimal wobble out of that and when it's not resting on the fan shroud it's actually pretty quiet I'm going to call that good and from here anything else that we get any noise out of we're going to let it self clearance no hitting in the fan shroud either that's good and I'll give him a quick nut and nut temporarily of course no nylocks one alternator strap and with that we can see we are way high still we're just going to start coming through clearancing everything across the bottom here and across the bottom there and across the bottom there basically that same distance let's see how that does let's get the dogghouse oil cooler in the dogghouse all right well I see it it's on that step on the back of the cooler right behind here we are getting held up that's almost doable still really not happy with that but perhaps if I can get it forced in place whatever happens to move out of the way will'll make it known got that in I don't like that sound that tells me something's hitting on the front and pushing the fan shr that way so that's good to know I'm going to pull this off and hit that edge and for the most part it seems pretty good well that seems much happier we're touching there almost touching there that seems to be pretty decent I'm going to go with that over here major point of discontent is this cylinder head so I'm going to have to grind that little Edge right there you can see it's pushing right there so I'll get the die grinder out and take out a little bit of that this side's [Applause] okay see that line around that exhaust Port we can't get that flat so I'm going to put a sheet metal screw a seat metal screw and I'm going to try to take a hammer and a punch and reshape that that gu bent out of shape there all right well all in all we do have a pretty decent gap on the back side over here that might be fitment this way where this needs to come in but we'll get our fan shout on and check the alignment [Music] there we're in there good in there wo that's way out yeah although when it's down in place it's actually not too bad but no no we're definitely going to be trimming a lot on that edge right there that'll allow this tin to go forward in those slots and in we do have a really large gap across the back here and that's unfortunately not uncommon okay clear there fitment here and fitment there I shoot now honestly this is actually keeping this from dropping down any further so let's let me do that something else on this side is now oh might be the fact that that isn't back the case there we go that edge right there square that up a little bit hey hey hey that cured a lot of the problems with this thing bending out of shape too the Gap over here once we put a screw in is minimized if not eliminated so that looks pretty good we've got a gap underneath in the tin right there and with this being pushed out of shape by our engine stand that's probably all that's keeping that from getting lined up against the back here but the nice thing is is that edge is past that b we don't have a gap at the top it's now inside that edge is it as good as original no but it will do it all seems good no noise next up is our deflector tin start back here with this guy that's fairly decent yeah so that's got to come forward about a 16th of an inch there we go that lines up nicely there that lines up nicely there that's there let's try to get this guy in this side so once this tin gets bent into shape this bolt has to stay in place here but this one's going to have to come out because the engine tin this place has two holes for the screws this only has one that one gets covered I think I'm going to also take us over to our bench vice crimp this in here and then hammer it over cut it out there we go that one has to be off so loosen this guy this right there is just causing a little bit of a headache on that hole and since there's not much meat on that hole I'm going to cut back this piece of tin right here ever so slightly one two three four more screws note that I am putting all the screws in place before I tighten any of the screws and also while I'm fitting all this stuff I'll note that it's a heck of a lot easier if the engine's out of the car if you have to work around a car while doing all this I feel for you I've been there it's doable it's just a lot more work all right from here the only things that we haven't dealt with are the Hoover bit kind of hard to work on when the O cool is not bolted on the front engine tin but we can't put this in because this engine stands in the way if we were going to be running heater boxes we would have to put in heater channels so let's try and get those guys fit up it's kind of that same method bend it cut it grind it make it fit that's all there is to it yeah let's do this side so you can see the process of reshaping that around that and we probably just going to end up cutting it this will bolt in there bolt there that hole right there we'll open that up we'll get that shaped that screw lines up there well this piece is removable so that you could access the thermostat which would bolt to the case here if you had one leave those guys loose for some wiggle room there that seems well within our realm of adjustability and the good part or the bad part depending on which way you look at it is the more original tin you have the less work you have to do because massaging any one of these pieces to fit original pieces isn't all that bad of a deal but when you have to massage every piece like we have to do in this case it gets to be a little bit overwhelming but again it's not out of the realm of possibility let's start by opening that hole up with the bur bit that might go I'm going to pull it off now and finish it the rest of the way just a lot easier to mark that way b e a beautiful that should do that when we go to do the other side uh if we ever put this in a car uh as this is going to be a bench testing engine it's probably going to live on this stand for a while but once we pull this off we can put in this side modify this heater tin as necessary similar to what we did there but it's only one piece not three or two rather so it won't be nearly as difficult but still needs to be clearanced around that a little bit by the looks of it it's actually not that bad all things considered if the stand wasn't in the way all that would then allow this piece to bolt in it clears over here no problem that sheet metal screw down below this might need to be cut out or cut up over the top of that or kind of bent around it possibly but it looks like it's going to be clear and over here it's just that one screw right here and it actually clears right there not that big of a deal this tin like I said usually fits fairly well and then obviously to finish off the backs side of things once we get our Hoover bit in place and we get some proper studs to finish installing that we could then install our doghouse tin dogghouse exit tin if you will foam seals to finish off that edge there but this guy will'll install there single sheet metal screw we'll get him in and this actually drops through that hole right there and it actually comes with an O-ring or a Rubber seal to go around and seal against the back of that kind of just sits right on there on the inside is how I normally do them that way you can just push it into the back side here from the factory uh I don't know if they were glued here or how they got them to stick there so well but that's where the original one sits and this guy sits like that somehow or another typically might be that that is slightly out of shape yeah probably out of the way because of that but that guy would sit there so with the exception of this heater Channel and the front engine tin which it's kind of weird why they call it the front engine tin when it's not next to the rear main seal front engine tin is not in place this heater channel is not in place because since this is a going to be a a bench engine we're just going to keep this on the stand we'll be able to test Parts carburetors alternators Distributors pulley fitment Etc this is just going to live on the engine stand so this engine tin is going to be coming off pretty much indefinitely there's no reason for me to have this heater channel on this side either but at least I was able to show you guys how to get those fit this is going to come off after I show you how I cut the heat Riser holes but there we have it this is all of the engine tin fit is it as good as original absolutely not but it works it'll do the job and now you see why I did all of this fitment of all these engine tin pieces before I installed the intake manifold and everything else on the engine I got all these pieces cut down ground hammered on beat on clearanced so that I could get every single nut and bolt in place and I could eliminate most all of the gaps between the tin and the engine and the cylinder heads and as we can see we've done a pretty good job of it everything is in place hard to see back underneath here but everything's covered we've got no gaps there's no gaps here at the side everything all the way around fits really well our alternator spins no grinding inside the fan shroud everything here is as it should be so that's rep we've got all the engine tin in place and now we can get on to building the rest of this engine all the way up to the air cleaner and up to the point where we can start this thing but that'll be in another video in the meantime thanks for watching stay tuned