Turn Key Assembly - Part 2 - Carburetor, Fuel Pump, and Alternator:

Video Transcript:

hi I'm Sam with jbugs.com and we're going to get our unassembled but now assembled long block turned into a [Applause] turnkey so in our last video we got all of our engine tin locked up clearance cut ground feat on and fit so with everything fit now we will pull everything on the top side up and off so that we can get our intake manifold carburetor and all that stuff in place at which point then we can come back and drop this on so let's uh start taking things apart we can start with our fuel pump and our generator stand SL alternator stand we've got some gaskets that come with a fuel pump which are actually a little bit thicker than the L ring German gaskets I do like thicker gaskets to help lower the pressure on these so I'm going to go with those and to prevent this thing from possibly getting locked into the engine case I like to grease these guys and a little bit of grease on this even though this is going to get oiled definitely not going to hurt matters like so big dab of grease in here packed with protein Snickers satisfies them remember 14 foot PBS is actually quite tight just like that c CC fins pointing down that is the correct orientation and just like intake manifolds have that little raised lip if your oil deflect plate has that little lip you do not need to run paper gaskets it's redundant our stand filler and just because there's going to be shavings when we thread this into here I like to thread these off the engine intake manifold gaskets for a single port happen to be the right diameter to fit on that ever so nicely oh look at that and now our vent points up let's go with that pointing up which is a lot better than pointing down and like that and throw a cap on there 14 footb if you guess 14 you are correct put a little cap on there for SA Intake Manifold keeping intake manifold I think it's going to be our next step we've got original style metal gaskets I think the paper ones the thick paper ones actually seal better but these go on and off much easier than the paper gaskets and since this is going to be a test rig where we might put on different carburetors and everything else I'm definitely going to be using metal gaskets if you have original heads that have the alignment dowel it's been a long time since I've seen them but they are out there uh we've got our paper still in here and there let's get our boots and clamps ready to [Applause] go there we go 14 foot PBS and these are the fun ones cuz then you got to come in here with a wrench and just sit here and go clink clink clink clink idle solenoid we'll keep it protected for now fuel Inlet choke you guys have seen me work on these before I want to say these are twelves so I'll have to go get a 12 so we know we're at top dead center number one our rotor's pointing right here from our number one spark plug number one and I'll push these on and then I like to make certain that I push that wire in all the way so I know it's got a good contact way down below this is number two number [Applause] three and number four [Applause] in the top two a filter two a hose to our fuel tank so tight that they rarely need a hose clamp especially on the inlet side the inlet side is not pressurized but for safety sake don't feel bad if you run a hose clamp I often do however on this side because running this same size fuel hose on that Inlet is very difficult I'm going to go with this again this is pressurized so we definitely want to run clamps on here and I will get some hose clamps for that if I've got them here awesome if I don't I will get them on before I start it now Oil Cooler I've got some oil cooler adapter studs so we're going to go back track to where we should have kind of started yesterday but like you guys at home when we have a problem sometimes it delays so we've got that problem situated we've got two new oil cooler studs in our oil cooler I am using standard nuts and spring washers this time instead of flat washers and nylocks to tighten these guys in and I'm going to put those on to 5 foot lbs of torque now that we've got our oil cooler on we do have our Hoover bit in place we are going to put our fan shroud back in place note that I do have bolts on here instead of screws because now that we have our end castings in place it will be very hard to get a screwdriver in there well guess what I might have some issues doing this with that carburetor in place I got ahead of myself this has got to come off all right now that our carburetor is out of the way get our fan TR lined up there make sure we're place over on this side in the sheet metal there in the sheet metal here in here and there we go in there fan still spin smoothly tighten up our clamp and these guys honestly I'm going to flip these around I did spin our distributor 90° I didn't like the vacuum can all the way out the front instead of this being number one this will be number one and this just brings this in line with this a little bit more commonly positioned for people that are familiar to using the 9s let's just play around because I hate when sparkk plug wires look a mess since the aftermarket shrouds don't have the clips for the spark plug wires we'll do it like that make it look a little bit Cleaner number two I'm and Boot and then push the wire in all the way number three and number four there we go beautiful this wasn't going to be a test engine I would drill this fan shroud I Mount our coil right here however seeing as this is a test engine and we might end up putting on a dual carburetor kit or something else I am probably depending on the length of our coil wire hopefully I can mount our coil right here again only because this is a test engine I wouldn't do this on a engine I'm running on anything else if I was running dual carbs I would probably mount it down on the case but yes that will do nicely so let's do that I'll have to get some nut shirts for that but we'll get there I like fuel injection style hose clamps instead of warm gear style these are full circle clamps and they pinch together they just get a lot better grip on here if it was sitting up here and this was going down to our fuel pump I want that clamp like so there we go throw our carburetor back in place good and tight and I'm going to point it up like that so easy to get just like we thought about it ahead of time and did it piece of vent hose actually that probably helps it a little bit more if we come out there there we go there we go and while I've got this Choke Adjustment off and that open I'll show you how to adjust a choke these three screws right here we're going to loosen these three screws and then with our carburetor open we're going to rotate that assembly to open or close this choke it's probably overkill for these screws but let's see if it fits this choke was set right about there and as I loosen the screws it came open so what this does is there's a little spring coil in here that heats up and as it gets hot it loses tension and then it allows this butterfly right here to go straight up and down so that would basically mean that our choke is open for a throttle we can see that this is what operates this now first thing in the morning is when you want to check the adjustment on your choke basically the coldest time of day that you typically drive so with these three screws loose and where you can rotate this upper butterfly rotate it to the point where it just closes you don't want to Spring tension that because then it's have to get really really hot for that thing to actually open up and rotate it to the point where it's just closed and then we'll hold it and snug down our screws first thing you do in the morning before you hit the key is hit the gas once that does two things you send a squirt of fuel down the intake manifold and you close the choke now turn the key in the engine if it's tuned properly should start right up and idle and then as the engine warms up this will slowly open and that's how you adjust the choke now I can get to the Fan Shroud last C couple screws one here one here and one on the back side of our Hoover bit we'll start with these guys on either side and this one's not horrible if you had a flathead screwdriver cuz numbers one and number two sit further forward the number three and number four but you cannot get to this guy with a screwdriver but from the factory Volkswagen use standard Flathead sheet metal screws in those locations and ideally you leave these screws in when you're dropping the fan trout in place because now otherwise it's a big pain in the tus now if you weren't on an engine stand this little screw here would be easy to get to but we're on a stand so it's not so I'm going to do the same thing I'm going to put a bolt in here instead of a screw and that holds our fan shroud to the Hoover bit let's do some further investigation on this guy here this little guy does not go here or here goes here happens to be the perfect length oddly enough it's this perfect link for that too this seal seals this Edge right here and we can do one of two things we can put it on here which we're going to do and then that foam goes right there so that seals This Groove and that space right there and why they didn't just make that flat I don't know but despite being a aftermarket copy it is a copy and Volkswagen did them the same exact way now we've got this sealed here we've got our Hoover bit to seal across the bottom and all this air that gets blown through here this super hot air will get now blown out through here and through here this is a part of that dogghouse oil cooler system because prior to this this oil cooler was in line here so the air would come here on an upright shroud the air comes in blows through the oil cooler which is in here so the air comes in blow go through the oil cooler that air is now hotter and then blows down over our head and our cylinders now this is an air cooled engine we're trying to cool this Engine with hot air that doesn't make sense Volkswagen realized that and in 1971 they debuted the dogghouse this is the dogghouse this is not the dogghouse fan shroud dogghouse the dogghouse is behind the fan shroud now the air goes through here sealed off by our Hoover bit sealed off by this piece of rubber this piece of foam this piece of foam exits down here out of the engine compartment because this is sealed off right here so hot air comes in through and out of the engine compartment not heating up our head or trying to cool off our head with hot air all right back to the front side spark plug boots from the factory These Boots are normally just pushed on by a machine or otherwise maybe and they're pushed on way down here when you actually put it in that boot gets pushed into the cylinder tin and then air can actually come out you don't want you want all the air up here to be pushed that way not around here anywhere when you're putting on your spark plug ends shift that boot all the way up and even pull it back then clip it in place and then push your boot back in place so that that hole gets covered up as much as you can not that this engine is actually going into a car but if it were we wouldn't want to forget our accelerator cable tube with the aftermarket shrouds and honestly even with the original fan shrouds it seems that the hole in the Shroud is too large and well I can't demonstrate this way because it's just running into our engine stand but this can actually slide through the fan shroud so I take a large diameter 8 mm washer and Slide the tube through the fan shroud where it would come back here and through this convenient hole in the front engine tin so that's what that hole is there for this hole is for our exit tin this hole is for our reverse light wire we've got a new correctly sized alator belt 11.3 by 912 get that put in place underneath our lower pulley we'll pull off this nut and lock washer make certain that this spacer is in place the spacer is not in place a we don't sell them separately so that's the hard part but B then your pulley will end up destroying your alternator real important and you'd be surprised how many people get this incorrect they figure oh the belt only needs three shims to set the correct tightness I'm going to put three shims in I'm going to put the pulley front side in place and I'm going to tighten this on and then everything's good to go well it's not with those three shims in place it still wobbles you need 10 shims total whatever shims you don't use here put them here but you need 10 shims total three here seven here five here you put the other five here if you put two here put eight here if you put eight here put the remaining two here but you need to have 10 shims total always otherwise this will not be able to tighten the pulley enough do seven and three a little tight so we're going to loosen that up put all 10 shims in that's better again I'm Sam with Exhaust jbugs.com and we've got our empy unassembled long block assembled and now ready to run for the first time thanks for watching guys we'll see you in the next one wait wait wait wait hold on we can't run this thing without an exhaust we're going to go with some J tubes so I got some J tubes we don't need heater boxes in the shop and I'm going to go with a new exhaust this is the exhaust we're going to run after I pull off this rear engine sheet metal put on some exhaust gaskets get everything mocked up Loosely but let's do that real quick exhaust gaskets conveniently enough I couple C them with the engine gasket kit russle this guy in we're going to put one side On Loosely there we go put some J tubes on there's a long j tube and a short j tube otherwise they almost look virtually identical this cylinder head sits further back so it gets the long j tube and that side gets the short one some fresh gaskets on the back exhaust ports right now what we're most concerned about is our clamps Crush ring ceiling ring clamp clamp bolt with washer bolt with washer spring washer spring washer nut and nut and this will install with the crush ring towards the j tube faces away from the exhaust like so now that I got everything lined up I'll go through and bolt down our flanges here at the heads either side and then we'll put our clamps on and these are 14 ftlb as well not a whole lot of room in this curve here we'll get our clamp set up take off one side ceiling ring Crush ring clamp goes over all of that that's one side down me go get the other side set up Muffler clamp bolts oh wow 7 foot lb they're bumping it up from five I don't know about all that running it down to 7 foot lbs just seems a little bit excessive for me that clamp is getting that bolts I I'm not no now now that we've got our exhaust on we're going to get our heat Riser set up these things just aren't really perfect out of the box but they work with some Heat Riser modifications like everything else he's a little bit out of position I need to cut maybe 38 of an inch off of it so that this Edge lines up there however once I adjust the shape it actually lines up relatively well other than the fact that it's kind of not sitting quite Square there we go that's better nothing that a gasket can't handle so it's a good thing I did not cut that because now that's all but ready to go we're not going to do anything bolting on that because we still have to cut this out for that so what we're going to do is get both sides ready then we're going to go through and Mark out the pattern on here that we want to cut out out couple things right off the bat my clamps here kind of in the way so let's move those out of the way based on how far that thing's sticking over and that thing's just like long as can be I've got about one Sharpie this way or about half harmonica thickness and how far that thing is going across there it's only see if this thing leaves a groove on my finger I can touch the tip of the bottom recess with that and well I could feel it right about there on my finger so that's only how deep it can go to there I'm going to cut this off right about there and you don't have to do this with all intake manifolds or all heat risers but depending on which supplier we get these from at any particular Point sometimes you'll actually have to cut these tubes sometimes you'll have to cut these tubes and in the future we're hoping that you won't have to cut anything hey hey hey all right so now that we're in the center hole much like we had on the other one we're up short here but if we bend it just like that so now we've got that in place and that in place front engine tin back in and I'm just going to tighten a couple of them because I'm just going to take this thing off in a moment once I get this scored in this scor where this needs to be cut that to give us an outline of what we want to cut out for our heat Riser now we're going to pull this off again like so like so [Applause] there we go under that over that yeah that seems to be pretty good as does that nice and all the screws in by hand except for this guy back here cuz this guy's it's just you can't get your hand back there I guess if you wanted to do stew My Method but still make it removable you could do a little small slice on the back just in line with a tube so that it can be pulled in and out like this tin right here we're just going to do a snap like that that looks a lot better doesn't it and it's now removable these exhaust gasket kits are intended for use with stock exhausts they come with hex head bolts which would thread into the muffler well I have to put nuts on the bottom side of these so I'll do that but I will use those they also come with these sheet metal screws that would have held all the deflect tin in around the exhaust port and with that folks now we have an unassembled m600c long block and with our long block completion kit and a couple other pieces and brackets and a whole lot of modification and work we've got this assembled and ready to fire for the first time that'll be coming up in a later video in the meantime thanks for watching oh shoot I still got to mount the coil and set the end play in our next video we'll see you then