JBugs Video Series

1971 VW Super Beetle - Transmission Installation:

Transmission

Video Overview:

We picked up a rebuilt Pro Street Flyer Transmission from The Wright Gearbox to install in our 1971 Euro Look Super Beetle. Follow along as we install it in our restored chassis with urethane transmission mounts and a rear transmission support kit. Then we’ll install the shift rod in the chassis and connect it to the transmission with a Heavy Duty Urethane Shift Coupler.

Transmission prep: 1:05
Transmission installation: 3:20
Shift rod bushing installation: 4:50
Shift rod installation: 5:10
Shift coupler installation: 5:40


Video Tips:

Tools used in this video:

3/8" Drive Ratchet
3/8" Drive 3" Extension
3/8" Drive 13mm Socket
3/8" Drive 15mm Socket
8mm Wrench
12mm Wrench
13mm Wrench
15mm Wrench
Flat Blade Screwdriverv
Vice Grip Pliers
1/2" Drive Ratchet
1/2" Drive 27mm Socket
Jack
Hammer
Punch
Safety Wire
#2 Phillips Screwdriver

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Chemicals used:

Grease
Silicone Spray

Video Transcript:

Hi! I'm Sam with JBugs.com
We're reassembling the chassis for our 1971 Euro Look Super Beetle 
and before we put the body back in place, we want to get as many parts installed into our chassis as possible. Our next step will be installing a rebuilt Pro-Street flyer transmission and the transmission shift rod.
We start at the bench and begin by installing urethane transmission mounts into the bell housing. 
The urethane mounts have metal inserts that install at the mounting holes. The spacers prevent the mount from being crushed when bolting them in place.
For the rear mounts, there are four shorter bolts, which will point down and bolt the mount to the cross member, 
and four longer bolts that hold the mounts to the transmission. 
Washers are set in place onto the bolts, before sliding the bolts into the mount, 
the mount is set in place onto the transmission, more washers are set in place over the bolts in the bell housing, and Nylock nuts are threaded in place and tightened down.
Next, we'll install the rear cross member 
and we opt for a rear transmission support kit which has a strap that installs over the bell housing for additional support. 
We painted our mount to blend in with our chassis, 
and after the paint was dry, we set it in place onto the transmission and the mounts. 
We set lock washers on the bolts and then thread the nuts in place. 
Using a flat head screwdriver, while holding the bolt down, helps to thread the nuts on. 
As does using a pair of vice grips to hold the cross member in place to the bell housing. 
Once all four nuts are threaded on, they're all tightened.
Then, at the driver's side of the transmission, 
the two nuts on the side cover, at the ten and eleven o'clock position, are removed, so we can install the original clutch cable tube bracket. We don't tighten the nuts as the bracket will come back off for a moment when we install the clutch cable. 
The transmission is set upright so we can install the urethane nose cone mount. 
With the metal inserts set into the mount, 
washers are installed at the center recesses, bolts are inserted through the nose cone, into the mount, and the Nylock nuts are threaded down and tightened. 
The last piece we'll install before setting the transmission into the chassis is the nose cone boot 
which installs over the shift shaft.
We set the transmission into the chassis, nose cone first, 
lining up the holes in the front mount with the studs on the chassis, making sure that the metal inserts don't pop out. The original frame horn bolts and washers are threaded through the rear cross member, into the chassis loosely. Then, we jack up and support the front of the transmission. 
The metal inserts for the nose cone mount, are tapped into the mount, 
so we can install washers, and the nuts, which are tightened down. The rear frame horn bolts are tightened down.
Then, the clutch tube bracket, that we set in place earlier, is removed 
and slid over the clutch cable and tube. 
We set the bracket on the transmission again 
and verify that the clutch cable Bowden tube is curved from the chassis to the transmission. The Bowden tube, as it's named, should have a roughly one-inch bow for the clutch cable to operate properly. 
A clutch cable tube seal is slid over the cable and onto the tube 
and the cable is set in place at the clutch arm on the transmission. 
We don't have a wing nut handy at this moment but if you do, thread it on now. 
We do have the fuel line grommets though, so we spray some silicone spray onto the tube and the grommet 
and then slide it in place onto the chassis.
Next, we install a shift rod clip onto a shift rod bushing. 
Then, we slid the bushing into the shift rod hanger, in the tunnel, through the shifter hole. 
We grease the inside of the bushing and coat the length of the shift rod as it has to slide all the way through the bushing. 
The rod is routed through the chassis 
and into the shift rod bushing. 
This is a little easier on our chassis since we cut a clutch cable access hole. 
Otherwise, a long piece of pipe can be used to push the rod through the bushing, to the back of the chassis. 
There, we can reach in through the shift coupler access hole and pull the rod back. 
The shift rod is rotated so that the shifter cup is upright in the shift mount hole.
Then, we install a new heady duty shift coupler cage onto the transmission shift shaft. 
The grub screw for the cage is threaded in and tightened down 
and the shift rod is lifted into place into the coupler. A urethane bushing is set into the side of the cage. Then, the cross nut with a washer in place is slid through the bushing and the shift rod. 
The opposite urethane bushing is set into the coupler 
and the set bolt with the washer are threaded in and tightened down. 
Safety wire is routed through the grub screw, 
twisted, and wrapped around the shift shaft and looped around the screw. The shift coupler access plate is installed. We install the fuel line grommet at the front of the chassis.
Then, back at the transmission, we install the top strap for the rear transmission support kit. 
We thread on a clutch cable wing nut 
and we finish this video by screwing our custom clutch cable access hole cover in place. 
Coming up in our next video, we'll continue the work on the chassis, 
install the emergency brake and heater controls.
Thanks for watching!
Let us know if you have any questions in the comments below. 
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and of course, when you need parts for your vintage Volkswagen, head over to JBugs.com