JBugs Video Series

VW Beetle - Engine Installation:

Engine

Video Overview:

Installing an engine in a Beetle doesn’t require many tools, and can be done in just a few minutes with the help of a friend. There are a couple of tips that help make the job easier though so watch and learn! Most importantly, safety first! Make sure to have some jack stands and be certain to never go under a vehicle until it is securely placed on them.

Transmission Preparation: 0:54
Vehicle Preparation: 1:25
Starter Installation: 1:37
Engine Preparation: 2:15
Engine Installation: 2:28
Engine Wiring Harness: 4:10


Video Tips:

Tools used in this video:

Needle Nose Pliers
Wheel Chocks
Jack
Jack Stands
Measuring Tape
Flat Head Screwdriver
17mm Wrench
3/8" Ratchet
6" Extension
17mm Socket

Video Transcript:

Hi! I'm Sam with JBugs.com
We had a 1966 Beetle in our shop to be completely rewired 
and at our request, it came in with the engine removed so we can route all the wiring behind the engine and firewall tarboard. Now that the wiring and firewall tarboard are both in place, we can install the engine. In this case, the engine is a late model, dual-port 1600cc with a 12-volt generator.
We'll start by making sure the transmission mounts are in good shape 
and install a new throw-out bearing. 
This is a swing axle transmission 
but has been rebuilt with a later model cross shaft and centering sleeve. We install the corresponding throw-out bearing which has the built-in clips. 
The bearing is set in place on the sleeve and the clips are pried out 
and over the throw-out shaft arms, on either side, to hold it in place. We check the operation by pulling the clutch arm back and pull on the bearing to make sure it’s secure.
Now, we can chalk the front tires and get the rear of the car jacked up high enough 
for the engine to slide underneath the apron or fender. With the height confirmed, the car is set up on jack stands.
We slide the new 12-volt starter into the starter bushing to make sure the transmission has the correct bushing. 
With the fitment confirmed, the starter is set in place on the transmission and the lower nut is tightened. 
The ignition switch wire is plugged into the starter solenoid 
and the power that runs to the voltage regulator on the generator is attached to the threaded post on the starter. 
The positive battery cable attaches to this post as well. 
A new fuel line to chassis grommet is slid in place onto the fuel line as the original grommet was missing. 
As the rear engine to body seal and the firewall seal are both new and installed properly, 
we can get to work on the engine.
The rear engine tin is removed to give us more clearance against the rear apron. 
The spark plug wires are pulled off and set away from the edges of the engine to prevent them from being damaged.
The engine slid under the car and a jack is rolled in at one side. 
From inside the engine compartment, the side of the engine is lifted up so the jack can be slid underneath it. 
The engine is jacked up into the engine compartment while carefully directing the engine 
to prevent the generator from hitting the apron. 
The engine is jacked up further 
and once the lower engine studs are in line with the lower mounting holes in the transmission, we reach behind and slide the accelerator cable through the rear engine tin into the accelerator cable tube in the fan shroud and pull it through to the opposite side.
Now, the engine can be pushed into place into the transmission. 
Once the lower engine studs are through the transmission, 
nuts are threaded on and tightened down. The fuel hose is pressed onto the chassis fuel line. The upper left engine bolt is installed into the transmission, threaded into the engine, and tightened down. Next, the D bolt is slid through the starter, transmission, and engine. 
In the engine compartment, a nut is threaded onto the bolt 
and tightened down while an assistant holds the bolt head in place at the starter to prevent it from turning. 
With the engine in place, the spark plug wires are reattached to the appropriate spark plugs. 
The rear engine tin is set onto the engine 
and the rear engine seal is pried up and over the tin. Once the seal is on top of the tin, the tin is bolted to the engine.
The accelerator cable is attached to the carburetor, 
and then the wires at the top left of the engine compartment are routed to the engine with the longer wires going to the voltage regulator. 
The shorter portion of the harness 
houses a black wire which is connected to the positive terminal on the coil and a blue/green wire which is plugged into the oil pressure switch. 
The longer leg of the harness going to the voltage regulator contains a red wire 
which is connected to one of the B+ terminals on the voltage regulator and a blue wire which is connected to the 61 terminal on the regulator and with that, our job is done. The car can be jacked up off the jack stands and lowered down to the ground.
Thanks for watching! 
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